Showing posts with label Egypt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Egypt. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Men Who Get High With Goats

 My next adventure in Egypt was to help my friend, Bill Key, get some photos for an article he is writing. It is about an aqueduct, shown in the first picture, which was built in the sixteenth century. In its time, Borg El-Sakkiyat played a major role in delivering water to certain parts of Cairo. Its tall pumping station, powered by oxen, lifted water from the Nile so it could flow down a gentle slope to various points of distribution.

 This once magnificent structure has been all but consumed by the infrastructure of Cairo. The exhaust from millions of motor vehicles has coated the stone blocks and mortar to form a dark gray patina that camouflages the structure. I would dare to say that the two kilometer stretch of this medieval aqueduct along a main thoroughfare goes virtually unnoticed by most people that pass by it.

 In order to get the best photos, Bill and I knew that we needed to get on top of one of the nearby buildings. The second picture shows a view of a hospital. The yellow building to its left is a girls school.. We were discouraged from entering the hospital by the general lack of organization and funk that met us at the door. We were forbidden from entering the girls’ school by an irate lady that glared at us two gringos like we were invaders from mars. Finally we gained permission the go on top of an apartment building, shown in the third photo.

 While climbing the stairs we began to notice, near the top of the staircase, that alfalfa, carrots, and other vegetable scraps were lying to the side of the stairs. Finally, we saw sunlight and as we stepped out on the roof we were surprised by the presence of about a dozen goats and a couple dozen small ducks. The roof had  a four foot parapet wall around the perimeter that served as a fence to keep these critters from falling to the street below. The parapet also served useful to me as a place to steady my camera while photographing the aqueduct.

After the photos were done we took a few minutes to visit with the roof top rancher. Bill and our friend Mahmud speak Arabic so we were able to find out that the owners mother had made the Hajj, or pilgrimage to Mecca. She was quite proud of her accomplishment which earned her a special place in the Muslim community.

After we went back down on the street, Bill and I walked the entire length of the aqueduct. Money had been recently appropriated for some repairs on the 500 year old structure and we saw several workers digging near some of the arches. The purpose of the excavation is to dig down far enough that the footings can be reinforced. The piles of dirt and debris being removed from the ground contained a few interesting artifacts such as glazed tiles. These tiles were probably part of a paved walk way at one time.


At the far end of the aqueduct lies the ancient pumping station which is shown in the last photo.

Sunday, February 28, 2010

Gringo in the Sahara : A Developing Story

 After a long trip from Texas I found myself in the midst of more people and noise than I could have ever imagined. Thankfully I was able to rest and recuperate from simple exhaustion and dehydration in the comfortable home of my friends Bill and Kathleen Key. Their large fifth story apartment is located in Maadi, one of the nicer areas of Cairo.

 The balcony over looks the Nile and on a clear day one can view several pyramids and gaze down upon an endless, honking stream of traffic on the street below. Some how these motorists maintain three to four rows of traffic on a street marked for two lanes.I decided that the white lines merely indicate the direction of the traffic flow. As long as car is not perpendicular to the lines then all is well. Stopping and backing up, when the vehicles are moving with their bumpers nearly touching, is not an unusual maneuver. Plenty of shouting and hand gestures go on during these automotive antics, however a delicate balance exists which allows life to go on from day to day. It doesn't appear that it would take much upset that balance and for chaos to begin to rule the streets.
 Sparsely scattered among the many Mosques are Coptic Christian churches which are a reminder of Mary and Joseph’s flight to Egypt with baby Jesus. One island in the Nile close to central Cairo, known as the Island of Gold, is graced at one end with a Christian Church displaying a cross on its tall spire. At the other end of the Island is a Mosque with the iconic crescent moon resting at the top of a slender tower used by an appointed man who starts the prayer chanting at the appropriate times.

 Despite the western assumption that Christians and Muslims can't live together, the people of Cairo are surprisingly friendly to one another and westerners (khawagas) such as me.

 I quickly found my self comfortable in situations that I planned to avoid. I think that the realization that I was walking the same streets once walked by Jesus and the courage I gained from prayer put me at ease.
The day after I arrived in Cairo my expatriate friends and I loaded our gear into two four wheel drive vehicles and started a nine hour journey to an oasis village named Siwa. The desert along the Mediterranean coast imparts deceptive impressions to the eye. An endless sea of sand subtly merges with the sea while intense sunlight makes it difficult to judge distances.

Oh!

All I see turns to brown
As the sun burns the ground.
And my eyes fill with sand
As I scan this wasted land.
Tryin' to find
Tryin' to find
Where I've been.

KASHMIR, Led Zepplin

After hours of travel across the harsh terrain of the Sahara, about 30 miles east of the Libiyan border, palm trees start to become visible. In very little time from first sight of the green spot on the horizon, you find yourself in the midst of a city full of friendly people. The precious water from the artesian wells throughout Siwa is used to irrigate hundreds of acres of gardens.

The hotel where we stayed  is ancient and had been retrofitted with plumbing and electricity so; it was a comfortable place when compared with the primitive homes in the area.

 The next morning we rented donkeys and carts and from the hotel we headed to a hill covered with the remains of a small community. At the base of the hill stands a bronze plaque that identifies the spot as the location of The Temple of the Oracle. Alexander the Great stopped here prior to his conquest of Egypt and the oracle confirmed him as both a divine personage and a legitimate Pharaoh of Egypt. That was in 351 BC.

 I was astounded by the fact that the ruins here were being left to disintegrate in the desert sun. The hill was unattended and we had free rein to explore as much as we wanted to. Attached are photos of me driving my donkey cart, a view of the hill from a distance, and me again, at the entrance to the Temple of the Oracle.

 The next day our little caravan headed back to Cairo. On the way we made a stop at the El Almein Battleground Memorial. During WWII the Germans attempted to stop the flow of supplies going through the Suez Canal to Allied countries in Europe. The Allied forces were able to drive the Germans out of Egypt but they paid a high price for the victory. The cemetery where the casualties were laid to rest had an aura about it that caused me to become very reflective and emotional about that terrible war. All wars are terrible but due to the fact that the world is full of power hungry people that want to rule the world wars have been necessary throughout the history of our country to preserve our freedom. WWII has a special place in the history of the United States in that it was the last war that was fought by military professionals focused on victory. All of our wars since then have been orchestrated by politicians focused on their own personal gain.


 While I am on the subject of the policies of national security and defense of our freedom, I would like to share an observation that I made while traveling abroad. In Europe, Africa, and the Middle East airport security is conducted in more effective manner than in the US. While profiling is discouraged in our country, it is the foundation of the procedures used in the rest of the world. Unfortunately, idealistic groups like the ACLU have taken away the basic tools needed for making our airlines as safe as they could be. The same can be said about our immigration laws. The doors are open for our worst enemies to enter our homeland and set up shop to work toward destroying us.

Our founding fathers had Christian values and common sense to guide their tongues and pens. Unfortunately too few people today understand history and human nature enough to make rational plans for our future. Of the few that are grounded in the traits needed to lead us into the future, too few have the courage to speak, let alone act on their beliefs. There are many politicians that have there heads in the clouds and their hands on their wallets instead of their hearts.






Monday, February 15, 2010

Headed to Cairo


I am headed to Cairo tomorrow. I think that there will be a lot to tell about when I get back. I will keep you posted.