Monday, May 26, 2014

A Cavalry Fort, A Hidden River, Two Persian Ibex, and a Ghost Town

Photo of the Florida Mountains by John Fowler of Placitas, NM



 I got to La Mesa about 1:30 in the afternoon may 15. Bill and I had been talking for a few weeks and had come up with a list of places to find and explore. So, we went straight to Las Cruces and rented a four wheel drive vehicle. After breakfast May 16, we started west on Interstate 10 toward our first destination which was Fort Cummings and Cooke's Spring.

 White men discovered the spring during the Mexican-American War by a Mormon battalion traveling from Ohio to California . The spring was named after the battalion commander, Captain Philip St. George Cooke and is located about 20 miles NW of present day Deming.  Captain Cooke was also the name sake of a few other places in the area: Cooke’s Peak; Cooke’s Range and Cooke’s Canyon.

 The spring was the only sources of water within several days ride in any direction, therefore, after it became well know, most folks heading through this dry part of the country planned their route so they could stop 
there and stock up on water. It didn’t take long for hostile Apaches in the area to start raiding travelers who were stopped at the spring. 

Plaque dedicated to The Mormon Battalion.

 In 1863 General James Carleton order a fort to be built near the spring to protect itinerate pale faces. He named it for Maj. Joseph Cummings, 1st New Mexico Cavalry who was killed that summer by Navajos in the Four Corners area. The fort also served as a Butterfield Overland Mail station.
Round shelter and cover for Cooke's Spring.

 After the railroad was built, water from Cooke's Spring was supplied to the neighboring village of Florida. Now, the spring is capped off and protected by a round stone walled structure with a wooden roof.

Suddenly,  an old ruin appeared among the ancient adobe walls.
 Even with a nearby source of water, it appears the soldiers led a rough life there in the desert and were constantly harassed by Apaches. After the Civil War, freed slaves were brought in to the Army and sent to Fort Cummings and many other forts in the Desert Southwest.  The Apaches called these troops Buffalo Soldiers.Writer Walter Hill documented an account by Colonel Benjamin Grierson who said the Apaches and Comanches told him, what translates to, "We called them 'buffalo soldiers,' because they had curly, kinky hair...like bison".

 I once heard a young tour guide at Fort Concho tell a group of visitors the reason the Indians called the black soldiers Buffalo Soldiers was because of their strong spirit and strength. That is not true. The statement was a prime example of how political correctness distorts the truth. Beware of history books written after 1964 because they are full of propaganda meant to push the agendas of special interest groups.

 After we finished up at the Fort Cummings area we went back to Deming and secured a couple of rooms for the night. Afterwards we went south to the Florida Mountains to look for some Persian ibex. The Florida Mountains near Deming are the only place in the US where Persian ibex roam freely. Biologists believe all other goat species evolved from the Persian ibex. The ibex were stocked in the Floridas in 1970 under the leadership of the then-director of the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish, Dr. Frank C. Hibbens, who was a safari enthusiast and the discoverer of the Sandia Man Cave. The ibex were a gift of a provincial governor in Iran.

 At first a handful of ibex were brought to the Floridas for hunters in the winter hunting season. Their numbers have since stabilized at 400-450 under Game and Fish management.

 The day before we started our trip we went to the BLM office in Las Cruces to get some hints on where to see some ibex. The people there were friendly and very helpful in telling us where to look. Fortunately we bought a BLM map before we left. The map had very little detail and only the major roads were marked, however, when we left we forgot to put any other maps in the car, so the BLM map was all we had.


 We got around fine and found all the places we were looking for, but it took a little extra time. That was OK though because the weather was beautiful and it was fun driving around.
 In Las Cruces the wildlife biologist had suggested we park at the base of a formation, known as Dragon Ridge, in the late evening to look for ibex. We took his advice but only saw one which was about three quarters of a mile away. Below are a few pictures from Dragon Ridge. Next time I go I will have a tripod!

Look in the center and you should be able to see an ibex with short horns. This photo was taken at 10 power magnification without a tripod. Estimated distance between 3/4 and 1 mile.

These are Hoodoos near the base of Dragon Ridge.

Dragon Ridge from a few miles.
Sun setting behind Navajo Bill Hill...really.


 At dark we headed back to Deming for dinner and then to the hotel to get some rest after a very full day.

 After breakfast Saturday we headed west towards Lordsburg in search of a place called Lower Gila Box Canyon. We had read the canyon was a place out in the desert where the Gila River was surrounded by hills and cottonwood trees. A soon as we left the pavement we were really glad we had rented an all-wheel drive vehicle. Some of the route was sandy arroyo beds and other parts were steep rocky trails.We wouldn’t have made it very far in my two wheel drive Tacoma.



Enjoying the solitude of a special place.





 The written directions we had printed off a web site said the last leg of the trip to the river was 3.5 miles. After four miles we became worried we had been given a bum steer. At 5.5 miles we decided to stop the vehicle and I climbed up the side of a hill to take a look around. Only then was I able to spot thick groves of cottonwood trees, so we pushed on.
  
 We stopped the vehicle again and went on foot looking for the river. We crossed several arroyos with cottonwood trees by their sides. The tap roots of the trees were evidently living off the underground flow of water which often accompanies surface water. There were also lots of pretty spring flowers in the area. There was no litter or cigarette butts. Not even any flies or gnats. 

 I just realized, as I was writing this, from the spot where I stood by the river I could look any direction and see no evidence another human had ever been there. That doesn't happen often.
 
Ocotillo blossom.




Cholla blossoms.

 After we walked about ten minutes were came to the river. It was beautiful, clear and cold. This was the Gila River mentioned in many historic accounts of pioneer life in the Southwest. The same Gila River which flows through western New Mexico then across Arizona until it flows into the Colorado River at Yuma.
 
This is a look at a stretch of the hidden Gilla River. No sign of human life can be seen from this spot.
 I could have camped here for days, but we had more places to go and more to see. So, after an hour we made our way back out to the main road.

 Our next destination was Silver City, which was about fifty miles away. First we went to Western New Mexico University and took in the museum. I have always been fascinated by the designs on Mimbres pottery and this museum has the largest collection I’ve ever seen. There is something about the combination of geometric designs, animal drawings, and the black and white medium that mesmerizes me. I could have stayed there all day, but we needed to go to the city museum and then find a couple of rooms for the night.



This bowl is called an "exit bowl". When a person was buried, an exit bowl  was placed over their face. The hole was the for the spirit to exit the body and enter the spirit world.



 We called around and couldn’t find a vacancy so, when we finally stopped at one with a “Vacancy” sign, we stopped and went in. The guy at the desk said there was only one room and the price he quoted us was ridiculously high. When Bill asked the guy what was going on in town that caused all the rooms to be taken he informed us there was a wildfire north of town and firefighters had occupied the rooms.
 We decided to go back to Deming and stay at the same place we did the night before. I called to reserve a room and after we checked in we decided to go back to Dragon Ridge and look for some more ibex. Again, we saw only one, but it was well worth the drive and the time.
 That night at dinner we decided to go to Columbus the next morning and then try to find Old Hachita which is an abandoned gold and silver mine.
 After breakfast, Sunday, May 18, we drove down to Columbus and went to the museum. It was all about Poncho Villas raid and his subsequent butt whoopin’.
 The gentleman running the museum, Jim, was interesting to talk to. Or let me put it this way; it was interesting to witness Bill and Jim’s conversation. Bill was trying to get some information on Hachita and the ghost town of old Hachita, but the two of them had different definitions of a ghost town. Jim said that they were both ghost towns. Bill said the first one had some people living in it. Jim said that was correct and the post office was still, however, the bar was closed down so it is now a ghost town. It's hard to argue with a comment like that.

  It took longer than we thought but we eventually found Hachita and it was well worth it. For a brief history of this old mining town click here. Once again I thought about how rough life was back in those days. Especially working in one of these old mines. We spent a couple of hours at this old ghost town and got a few pictures. Some of them are posted below.

One of several mine shafts.
Older shaft.

Bill checking out what appeared to be an old mill.
The tailings behind this structure suggest it was an ore mill.

One of several ruins.

Looking east.

Looking west.
View of the blue Subaru.

Ruins of the old dance hall.


 Thanks for looking.

Sunday, May 11, 2014

Did Roy Rogers Work for the BLM?


 People all over the world have exciting images of the American West. It all began in the fifteenth century with the arrival of the Spanish vaqueros in the southwestern portion of what is now the United States. The vaquero gradually evolved into the American cowboy. The word cowboy conjures up visions of the open range, cattle towns, trail drives, and a way of life that has been rich in tradition but constantly challenged from the time of its beginning through the present day. Ranching is a way of life that has been threatened by Indians, westward expansion, droughts, and more recently by environmental groups funded by well intentioned citizens who live in urban areas. The leaders of groups such as The Nature Conservancy think that the federal government revoke the grazing rights granted to ranchers on land previously seized for public domain to form our national parks and wilderness areas. If successful, these groups could effect more change in the long heritage of ranching than did the advent of barbed wire fences. The ranchers and the environmentalists have equally good intentions for use of the remaining unpopulated areas in our country. Unfortunately the two groups are so culturally different that there is an apprehension on both sides that prevents meaningful communication.


  Keeping with the spirit of Manifest Destiny easterners began moving out west shortly after the Mexican American War. Investors from foreign countries, especially the British Isles, recognized the investment potential of open range ranching. All that was needed to become a “cattle baron” was enough capitol to buy some cattle, build some primitive structures, and hire a few hungry cow hands. It wasn’t even necessary to buy large tracts of land as long as water rights could be procured. There were no fences so the cattle wandered the range and grazed the plains in the warm months then went up to the high country in the winter. When spring time arrived the cattle were brought down to gaze the flat lands before being shipped to market.
  Montague Stevens, one of several Englishman who moved to southwestern New Mexico after graduating from Cambridge, wrote in his memoir, “The tall gamma grass swayed in the wind like waves on the sea”. In a ten year period, 1883 to 1893, the ratio of cattle per acre declined from one head per acre to one head per ten acres. The disappearance of that much plant life also made the land more susceptible to erosion and arroyos started to appear where once there were wagon trails.
 Another major challenge that had to be dealt with was sporadic Indian raids. Not all tribes were hostile but the ones that were cast a cloud of uneasiness over pioneers of the western range. The raiding parties were sometimes after more than cattle. Women and children were also taken. The US Army established forts on the frontier in an attempt to suppress the Indians who were eventually taken to reservations.
 After the Civil War new laws were imposed upon western ranchers by the U.S. Government. Farmers were beginning to use barbed wire fences to keep cattle off their crops. New regulations were put into place which subdivided land into “sections”, 640 acre tracts, and quarter sections. Ranchers were no longer able to use land by acquisition of the water rights alone. They were required to start homesteading in order to have legal rights to the land. The principles of land ownership came into being as deeds were issued and records began to be kept. Trail drives, which had been the accepted way of moving cattle from Mexico and Texas to ranges in western states, became impossible. The days of the open range ended and ranches took on the form of businesses dedicated to the enterprise of  raising beef cattle to feed help feed a nation of meat lovers.
 An important part of a cow hand or sheep herder’s job was to protect their animals from predators. Coyotes, wolves and bears were shot and trapped to near extinction. The opinion held by the stock men was that varmints and livestock could not coexist. The buffalo were gone and now native carnivores were threatened by the same fate. Concerned citizens started to realize that something had to change before more wild animals were wiped out for the sake of what some called progress.
 In 1902 President Theodore Roosevelt, a bold environmentalist of the Industrial Age, established the first national park at Crater Lake, Oregon. Another early environmentalist and former hunter was Aldo Leopold whose nature book, A Sand County Almanac written in 1949, received national attention. More and more land was set aside by the government to preserve forests and wildlife. Ranchers, however, were permitted to lease grazing rights within the boundaries of the federally owned and managed property.
After WWII the US Army began taking land from individuals and establishing large military bases and missile testing areas. One of the ranchers, John Prather, who owned 108 sections on the Otero Mesa of New Mexico, refused to leave his home despite the Army’s orders to do so. Another pioneer of the environmentalist movement, Edward Abbey, fashioned his novel Fire on the Mountain after the story of Prather’s stand off with the military. In 1975 Abbey wrote The Monkey Wrench Gang, which is soon to be a motion picture. This was the first popular novel that dealt with rebellion against “techno-industrial” society. The book depicts four people who band together to form an Eco-terrorist gang. The gang attempts to stop construction of dams, roads and bridges by sabotaging the projects and the heavy equipment being used by the construction crews. Abbey inspired some with his bold anarchist attitude and spoke at environmentalist rallies
 The organization, Earth First emerged in the Southwestern United States in 1975. It was the first recognized radical environmental advocacy group in the country. It wasn’t a coincidence that their logo was a drawing of a monkey wrench and a tomahawk. (See illustration).
 The idea of rebellious behavior wasn’t appealing to a lot of people who recognized the fragility of our ecosystems. There was a need for the formation of groups that would do something for millions who were concerned for the future of our planet. Today there are scores of organizations that accept donations and have programs to put volunteers to work on projects meant to help the worthy cause of conservation. Like any other organization, environmentalist groups can become more like large, bureaucratic, non-profit businesses with highly paid executives. Examination of the larger companies reveals that a disturbingly small amount of the donations collected go directly to the cause that donors want to support.
 The largest environmental group, in terms of dollars, is The Nature Conservancy (TNC). Like all non-profit organizations, TNC reports its assets yearly on IRS Form 990. Their reported assets on IRS Form 990 are $5,636,393,924.00; income; $1,398,742,000.00 and the top executive pay $349,373.00. An organization with that much money can be a powerful voice in government or in legal battles.
 The modern rancher is also concerned about the environment. Technology has improved the tools available for the large corporate cattle businesses as well as the small family owned ranches. To many ranching families, being good stewards of the land that they own and of the federal lands their cattle use for grazing, is part of a rich heritage that as been handed down for generations. However, some of the smaller ranchers fear that the large, donation based environmentalist organizations want to put them out of business.
 In the 1970’s the first notable advocacy group for the rights of western farmers and ranchers was formed.  The Sagebrush Rebellion focused on persuading the federal government to give more control of Western land back to the states. With control returned to the state level the people of the land felt that they would have a stronger voice in determining the future of the land that provided their livelihood. In 1981 Ronald Reagan joined the Sage Brush Rebellion and worked to cut spending for research on energy conservation and renewable energy resources. Conversation groups used there powers to lobby against cut backs on projects that they had worked hard to put into place.
 Many issues have been debated by the groups of conflicting interests in the West but the most emotionally charged issue is the treatment of wolves. The reintroduction of the gray wolf was so successful in Wyoming and Montana that this year these two states started issuing permits to hunt and kill wolves. In eastern Arizona and southwestern New Mexico the reintroduction of the Mexican gray wolf is not going well. Ranchers and concerned citizens have formed groups to justify the killing wolves that threaten livestock and children. In Catron County, New Mexico Graphic signs have been erected that depict pets and livestock that were killed or maimed by wolf attacks. At the same time the wolf supporters have offered rewards up to $50,000.00 for information leading to the arrest and conviction of anyone who kills a wolf.
 The biggest factor that divides the factions in the wolf controversy is difference in culture. The conservationists, who don’t live near the wolves, are outraged by the fact that anyone would want to harm the beautiful lobos. The ranchers who killed them off in the first place contend that the conservationists don’t understand how destructive a few wolves can be. Suggestions have been made that the folks that sympathize with the wolves should take a few home with them. When mistrust and differences of opinion reach the point where communication ceases, minds close and hostility begins. This holds true for many important issues that divide America today.
 All of us who choose to have a voice in the controversies plaguing or county need to set our sights on compromise and unity rather than defeat of the folks on the other side of the arguments. Hopefully we will soon see through our petty differences and learn recognize the greed that motivates the leaders of the some large organizations. We need to remember that we all have good intentions and, because of cultural differences, a concerted effort needs to be made to develop common a language that is free from offensive cliches and name calling. If each side says, “Things will be alright when the other side agrees with our side” then the intellectual quagmire will deepen and thicken. We need to reassess the long accepted practice of blindly throwing money at organizations that may be deceiving us by their appeals to our emotions. It is almost as if donating money has become a penance for the guilt that has been put upon us by a handful of zealots who are more devoted to personal gain than their purported desire for morally correct solutions. If we resolve that mediators are needed then we need to become the mediators. We need to be ready to accept compromise so that peaceful solutions between agrarian and urban agendas can be reached. Such harmony is difficult and will take a concerted effort but it is necessary for the survival of our natural heritage.
 One seemingly insurmountable obstacles in ever reaching any any kind of rational agreement on the use western land is the fact  it is owned by the BLM (aka US government). Our only chance would be if somebody like Roy Rogers ran the BLM and would kick out all the villainous government goons and turn it over to the virtuous ranchers.

Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Hunting Near Hamilton



 This year, after not hunting for a couple years, I bought back in on the deer lease near Hamilton. It’s just now getting cool enough for me to go down there and, just from the two times I’ve been, I can tell I made the right decision. It is a great place to get away from town and be close to nature.
 Almost six years have passed since we first leased this place and there have been a lot of changes. The farmer has cut trees and planted more fields; the fences have been moved around or removed; but the biggest changes have been caused by an invasion of feral hogs. The little devils have nearly exterminated the wild turkeys by eating their eggs and the deer are scarcer. I really don’t care about killing deer and turkey any more, but I do want to get rid of some of those pigs. Mostly though, I just want to walk around in the day and spend some cool nights camped out.
 
Hogs have already started tearing up the new oat crop.


 Last Monday I took the photo above that shows the new oat crop with a big wallow where the hogs have already started tearing up the field. I went home Tuesday night and returned Wednesday to find the farmer plowing the oats under. When I asked him why he was plowing it under he just told me he had planted the wrong kind of seeds and would have to replant. By late afternoon that beautiful green field was plowed sandy loam.
 I went to a place where I had seen the most obvious signs of pig activity and poured out a bag of corn then watched until after dark. It is legal to hunt varmints and hogs after dark with a light. Several deer came to the field and seemed bewildered by the fact the greenery was gone. They just walked around in the dirt picking at the few green sprigs that were left. After dark a half dozen pigs showed up and ran off the deer. I took a shot using a light with a red lens, but missed.
 There are three other guys hunting with me on 425 acres. Even with the large, cultivated field with no trees or cover, we have found 100 acres per hunter is enough area for safe and enjoyable outdoor fun. We rarely see each other when we are hunting because we have designated areas we hunt. There are also lots of times when I go during the week and have the whole place to myself.
OCT. 29, 2013
Deer season opens this coming Saturday;  the first Saturday in November. The weather is usually too warm for hunting in Texas in November. The mosquitoes and other bugs are still swarming. The snakes are looking for a place to spend the winter and are more active than any other time of the year. Winter comes suddenly in Texas. Fall lasts about a day then it comes and goes but never stays long. One day the wind will swing around to the north and a blast of cold air will dispatch the summer pests and put a chill in the air for a week or so then the sun will be back a couple of days. Before the end of November the first frost will come, the leaves will fall and winter sets in and we get the coldest temperatures in February.
 Deer season in our area ends in mid January and there is no closed season on feral hogs or exotic game. There are quite a few high fenced areas across the state where non-native animals are raised for "canned" hunts. There's no sport to paying big bucks to shoot something like a captive fallow deer. However, it is kind of fun when one of those African critters gets out of its fence and strolls in front of your rifle sights. They are not protected by hunting regulations and some are very tasty.
 I learned to hunt in New Mexico, so I realize a lot of people who read this will be a little confused by the hunting techniques and laws in Texas. For example, comfortable stands to sit in, large capacity feeders with automatic timers and trail cameras are very popular. Below are some samples taken by one of the cameras set up on the west side of our lease.


 The cameras are activated by a motion sensor and at night they use infrared and render black and white photos. As you can see, there's at least one nice buck visiting Chris' feeder. He looks like a four year old that has been getting plenty of protein in his diet.

Friday Nov. 1, 2013 (One day before deer season opens)

 I made it to the lease around 3:00 and the other three guys were already there. I made a quick run over to one of the feeders to fill it with corn and set up my new trail camera. I have decided to go ahead and use a feeder and camera this ear to try and learn a little more about the habits of the feral hogs and the game animal. Besides, I think some of the pictures will be pretty cool.
This picture of a little doe is one of the first I've taken with a game camera. She definitely noticed something out of place when she saw the camera strapped to a tree.
 Friday evening John, the newest member of our hunting party, cooked four huge steaks and a skillet full of potatoes, onions and mushrooms. It was a feast. Welcome to the group John.
 The evening before the hunting season starts is traditionally spent visiting, telling stories, eating and drinking. There's nothing quite like a party around a campfire in the middle of nowhere.

Opening morning, Saturday Nov 2, 2013

 The alarms went off two hours before dawn and everyone made it to their blinds and waited for the sun to come up. The early morning darkness is filled with the sounds of owls, whippoorwills, and coyotes. There had been only a sliver of a moon that night so, when the sun came up, there was lots of activity. All of us saw deer and they were all running and chasing one another. It is just about time for the rut and the big bucks are busy choosing their mates and fighting off young bucks that want to get in on some of the action. The deer are absolutely crazy this time of year an fun to watch.
 Nobody fired a shot the first three days. We are not hunting for meat this early because it is best to wait until the weather is cold. There are at least four trophy size bucks on our lease.

Dec.18, 2013
 I can't believe I let so much time pass before going back to check on my camera and feeder. I had around five hundred photos that included a coyote, bobcat, raccoons, squirrels, wild pigs, and yes, even deer. Below is a sampling. I think the one that shows an ear and part of a head is a curious bobcat. As he climbed the tree to investigate something new, the motion sensor activated the camera and just got the top of the critters head.





The deer all disappeared when the bob cat showed up.
Notice the time stamp is one minute before the one on the picture of the bobcat's hear above.
 Before I went home this time I unfastened one of the panels that keep the pigs out. I hope next time I check on this feeder I'll have pictures of pigs inside the pen. The time stamps may help me determine some kind of pattern so I can be there at the right time to shoot some pigs. THE END

 Here it is May and this lease has proven to be both the most expensive and the most disappointing I've ever been involved with. I actually started to delete the entire entry but decide to leave it just because there are some interesting photos.







Friday, October 18, 2013

Support the Vigilantes?

Ever since I was a boy growing up in El Paso I’ve wondered why Uncle Sam stands with his back to the Rio Grande, ignoring Mexico, and hands out billions of dollars in aid to countries on the other side of the world. Maybe the graft and corruption in the Mexican government prevents any help from reaching the people who need it.  There has to be a link between El Distrito Federal and the cartels.
Finally, vigilante opposition is making a difference in some of the smaller towns. In a country with strict gun control laws, desperate citizens are finding a way to get their hands on enough firepower to make a stand. Don’t be surprised if Eric Holder tries to claim credit for arming the good guys through “Fast and Furious”.
Check out this story: